Evaluation

I began CCS with the dreaded thought that I would then have to add another deadline on my ever growing pile of course work, but as the lectures and seminars into actually what we would be blogging about I found it much more enticing and enjoyable. I do thoroughly enjoy research particularly historical and or combined fashion research, so as the project developed I thought I would actually be in a good position.

However this was not the case. although I knew I had all of the relevant information in my head I found it exceedingly difficult to compress into the caped amount of words we could use. that alongside the fact that I found it really difficult to connect with my blog, I have enjoyed writing essays in the past but because blogs are so different I have built up a subconscious fear of using them. The longer the project went on for the greater this fear got until I had no time left at all so I then had to rush would I feel could of been a rather good piece of work into something I am now not sure is. couple this with my bizarre inability to Harvard reference things it seems like the entire situation was against me.

Although with the immense amount of negativity I had, there was light at the end. after I finally got over this irrational fear and actually did the work I started to enjoy it, no more than the last post on ‘Youth Subcultures’ because enabled me to involve a part of family history almost by me using a conversation I have had many times with my granddad and put him in my work (something I never thought I’d ever do). I feel that in a little way my informal writing has developed as before when I wrote essays etc I was always using a rather extensive and vibrant vernacular where as this time round I feel there was a slightly softer approach to my wording.

All in all I feel that although the paper outcome of this project not up to the potential that I know I can reach but it has seriously allowed me to see my need for change in mattes and also that tasks that seem almost impossible for the simplest reasons can still be overcome with persistence. and that is what I will take from the project the most.

Youth Cultures: “Teddy Boys”

“Teddy Boys”

(Fig 1.) A Best Dressed Teddy Boy Competition at Nottingham in 1956.

Interview – 13/09/2014 – Derek. J. Price (Grandad born 1945)

Being a “teddy boy” what did you wear?

“Oh I was a proper Teddy Boy alright; I had the drape jackets with velvet collars and big old lapels. Even had the “bootlace lace ties” and drain pipes! I did it proper. It didn’t too much matter about the shirt in the end with all the troubles us boys got in, never went back home in the same one!! Always covered in blood and me mum never knew the difference!”

There are lots of connotations with teddy boys and violence was it really like that?

“oh god yeah, mind you it didn’t happen always but when it kicked off it was proper, they say nowadays its bad but you wouldn’t walk around on your own dressed like a ted! Not that you care, you were a teddy boy you knew your boys weren’t far behind! I remember one time going down to ballroom down in Brighton because everyone was going (which travelling from Tredegar was quite the trek)… anyway was in this ballroom dancing with this lass, some guys comes up to me and says “Oi she’s mine” said sorry mate then went to walk away, as I turned my back my mate shouted me because the guy was gunna knife me, knife just missed my heart but was still in hospital for a while. So yeah the violence was bad when it was bad… few months later after the guy came out of hiding I showed him what’s what now were even. This was all before your Nan mind”

https://www.youtube.com/watch?x-yt-ts=1421914688&feature=player_detailpage&v=uBdbwnfRmsM&x-yt-cl=84503534

What was it like to know you all had your boys no matter what?

“was all like a family even strangers who were teddies all acted like family it was amazing, just the rockers we didn’t get so well along with! But yeah this big community we all had was awesome.

Even with the horrendous stories you’ve told me about your days, you still say it all with a massive grin of happiness, is it really always a happy memory?

“yeah actually it was I mean we did get up to some mischief mind, some of it looking back pretty scary stuff, but we were Teddy Boys, we wore our suits with pride like armour! I mean we looked good, we all took so much pride in what we looked like, not like a punch of pansies more as a uniform with our boys beside us. So yeah wouldn’t change anything. Besides the ladies always did like a good suit that’s how I met your Nan!

(Fig 2.) Teddy Boys admiring the view on Clapham Common in 1954

“Teddy Boys were the first real high profile rebel teenagers, who flaunted their clothes and attitude like a badge” – Subculture list

Fig 1: The Edwardian Teddy Boy, http://edwardianteddyboy.com/page3.htm

Fig 2: The Edwardian Teddy Boy, http://edwardianteddyboy.com/page3.htm

Subculture list, http://subcultureslist.com/teddy-boys/

Teddy Boys-50’s TEDS-T.V News Clip, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uBdbwnfRmsM

Bricks and Mortar

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZUKhnVSe0x8

AllSaints

Being one of if not my favourite brand at the moment I could choose any other brand to evaluate. To get a true representation of the brand I went to their flagship store in Spitalfields, seeing all the raw metal works in the stair and changing room doors, the massive archaic ‘Singer’ sewing collection in the shop window and decorated throughout you get an overwhelming sense of clean grunge. This being a complete juxtaposition of words “clean grunge” to me immortalises the brand.

(Fig 1. & Fig 2.) Spitalfields Store Front

Their mission statement “to create a brand that blends music and fashion into a potent formula of desirable clothing that expresses individuality and attitude” puts this brand miles apart from all others because it doesn’t follow trends, it does what it wants and consumers love it!! And by having such an involved underground music structure to the company harmoniously intertwining with each other gives it a completely unique selling point! “The visual image of brand + sum of experiences = brands position in consumers mind” (Jackson, T., 2009)

(Fig 3.) Merchandise

With their target market aged 18-35 they are targeting stereotypically young adults with little responsibilities so do have the luxury of being able to afford good quality, as well as edgy and fierce statement clothing. With coats pricing up to £400 and shoes from £120 – £300, they have desirable put themselves in high class high street category making them desirable but accessible unlike traditional extortionate designer prices. By targeting this age range with the prices they are, you will automatically will be cutting out as lesser class of people, people they may not necessarily want wearing their clothes (Abercrombie and Fitch alleged paying off Jersey Shore star to not wear their clothes) but also not too expensive it makes knock off copies superfluous.

   

(Fig 4&5) January 2015 Look Book

With regards to Location, AllSaints has maintains its underground edge and class by specifically placing it amongst said places. In London alone they have stores in Camden, Spitalfields (two extremely edgy and ‘happening places’), Covent Garden, Harrods, Selfridges (well known locations for exceedingly high end fashion) and many more. This shows not ignorance to location but a demonstration that their brand can go where and do what it wants and hold its own. Camden, a very colourful and vibrant location for personality expression and liberation of people, Selfridges, one of the world’s most prestigious shops selling all manner of high designer goods, a place where people are turned away and not allowed onto the premises if they do not look good enough. Two exceedingly different environments yet AllSaints still flourishes, showing that it has clutch of all manner customers yet still has not and will not leave its original raw music and arts loving passion.

 (Fig 6.) Camden Store Front

Fig 1: Own Image

Fig 2: Own Image

Fig 3: Own Image

Fig 4: AllSaints, Mens January Lookbook, http://www.allsaints.com/lookbook/men/2015/january/

Fig 5: AllSaints, Mens January Look book, http://www.allsaints.com/lookbook/men/2015/january/

Fig 6: Camden Town Unlimited, http://www.camdentownunlimited.com/news/new-frontage-all-saints

JACKSON, T. and SHAW,D (2009) Mastering Fashion Marketing, Hampshire: Palgrave

Ostrow & Smith, The Dictionary of Marketing 1988 p.28

Are you the prude? Or am I too naively open minded?

Ever since the first magazine and book, brands have used semiotics to push the appropriate image to their target customer, making the consumer admire and desire their products. But what happens when a brand pushes too far, when the image they are trying to give is too controversial? Is it genies that this image has become embedded into the viewers mind? Even though the image is hated, it still has the customer constantly thinking of the brand. Or is it vulgar? Using crude and inappropriate images into order to get attention without being able to with the product. Is the literal a distraction?

“Signs acquire their potential meaningfulness by contrasting themselves with what they are not” (Medi Semiotics, 2002, 9)

Tom Ford. The luxury men’s and womenswear brand has a history of overly provocative and sexualised adverts, with frequently naked men and women.

I chose this specific advert out of the shoot and the many other provocative images by the brand for its extreme simplicity and naive mockery. The advert unlike many other perfume adverts is to me not as sensual or proactive due to its playful and fun expressions. Yet this ironically has the two models in more intimate pornographic positioning. The clever use of combing both mischievous attitudes and overly explicit placements allows the image to be more perverse by balancing each other.

“It’s important to note that the entire campaign for his Neroli Portofino fragrance is risqué. However, no one is quite as scandalous as that of the two completely naked models in an extremely compromising position.'”

To me this advert epitomizes the brand as it captures every aspect of it. These 3 images so a raunchy and seductive position yet with an overwhelming sense of desire and admiration from the spectator, this to me is the brand completely. even though the advert is for perfume it still represents the clothing with regards to the fact it makes the wear feel strong, and rule-breaking desirable and has the views of said person look at them with an envious lust to hate but be them!!

To finalise, no matter what anyone thinks about the campaign and whether or not its too controversial, it cannot be denied that it has in fact represented the company perfectly, drawn the attention of its target market and grabbed the attention of the media. what more could any brand want??

Julia Rubin. (2011). Tom Ford’s Latest Fragrance Ad Is The Most NSFW Ever. Available: http://www.styleite.com/beauty/tom-ford-neroli-portofino-ads/

Am I sustainable? Do I care? or is my look far too more important?

Sustainability. Ethics. These words are constantly thrown about, brands are constantly being scrutinized on how ‘good or bad’ they are for the planet, both environment and people, and its particularly cheap fashion brands like Primark who are noticed more due to their extremely cheap prices. However, what about large High-street brands with rigorous systems in place to prevent exploitation, are they clean? NO! this article how multimillion pound companies can still get caught!

Are These Unethical Fashion Brands Hiding In Your Closet?

So I thought id dive into my own wardrobe and see what I would uncover about my clothes…..

…and I chose my favorite mustard blazer from Zara.

As soon as you look at it you are immediately drawn to its overly flamboyant coloring then when the details emerge it becomes ever more interesting and unique….

This subtle detail, alternative buttons and stitching to makes it ever more interesting!! however need to look at its heritage upon getting into my possession.

This garment was made in morocco, one of the 2 main producers of garments for the brand (The Atlantic). Instantly shipping costs come into the equation of environmental damages (however not as damaging as the distance of china).

But to look specifically look at the garment itself, specifically the intense colour. “during the dyeing process an average t-shirt will use 16-20 litres of water. 80% of the dye is retained by the fabric and the rest is flushed out… the global textile industry discharges 40,000 – 50,000 tons of dye into the water system” (Ethics Fashion) This tremendous amount of water wastage is why “textiles leave one of the largest water footprints on the planet and dyeing poses an especially big problem” (The Gaurdian) and with much of this water being dumped into local water supplies wildlife and human quality of life.

With modern ways of dyeing fabric with a massively reduced water wastage leaves no reason to stand to why the traditional method is used. US company ‘Airdye’ which instead of using water using air to disperse the die, which allows the colour to last longer against water and chemicals. (The Gaurdian)

To conclude without knowing specifically how environmentally friendly my specific jacket is, you still know the damage done. In one way or another my jacket was dyed with a really bright coloring which would have resulted with some adverse affect, which leads me back to my original question…. how bothered am I, although the figures sound bad environmentally, is my style more important to me? how many other thousands of people are in this dilemma of morality?

Derek Thompson. (2012). Zara’s Big Idea: What the World’s Top Fashion Retailer Tells Us About Innovation. Available: http://www.theatlantic.com/business/archive/2012/11/zaras-big-idea-what-the-worlds-top-fashion-retailer-tells-us-about-innovation/265126/

Etical Fashion Forums. (n/a). Ethical Fashion Forums. Available: http://www.ethicalfashionforum.com/the-issues/dyes

Leon Kaye. (2013). Clothing to dye for: the textile sector must confront water risks . Available: http://www.theguardian.com/sustainable-business/dyeing-textile-sector-water-risks-adidas.